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EXTERIOR PAINTING

- useful tips by Beckers

Beckers is a Swedish company but most of the information is relevant in the UK.

 
 
Choosing your colour
If you’re planning to repaint your house, why not take the opportunity to change its colour scheme?  Regardless of whether it is a change of colour for the whole facade or simply for the architraves and windows, it is important you are satisfied. You will live many years with your colour choice. Choosing a colour is not so simple; there are many things to consider. We have put together the most important. The small colour sample can be deceptive. Choosing the colour of your house is exciting and fun, but many also find it to be a difficult decision. Colour can alter the house’s character so much that it feels like a new house. Bear in mind that the colour on a small colour sample is not experienced the same way as the end result on a large exterior surface. Colour grows with intensity and brilliance in line with the surface size. If you want to avoid a ‘glowing’ house, beware of those bright and powerful colours and instead choose the subdued colours i.e. those containing more black. The result will be a closer match to the sample. The same can be said for pure white, which will most likely be too ‘brilliant’ when used outside. Choose instead an off white. Details such as window bars and windowsills can be painted with stronger colours than that of the facade. For the ultimate result, it is best to test paint a few square metres on the facade first. Sample tins are available at Paint & Paper.
 
Can any colour scheme be used?
In accordance with the Planning and Building Regulations, the local authority can influence the colour scheme of a building. But it is not the case if you are repainting and the ‘character of the building is not changed significantly’. If you are unsure, then contact your local authority’s planning department. Neighbours do not have any decision making right in accordance with the law. However, they do have the right to submit their comments in conjunction with the building permit. For the sake of neighbourly relations, it is a good idea to talk with your neighbour first. (The above refers to Swedish law and may not apply in the UK but it is food for thought).
 
Typical Swedish colour schemes
Up until the mid 1900’s, the colour pigment was taken from the ground and was made darker or lighter by adding black or white. This resulted in a limited colour scheme which in many ways is the basis for what are considered to be traditional Swedish colours. Colour schemes vary both over time and in the country. In Skåne (south Sweden) many houses are rendered white. On the west coast they are white or pale pastel shades, whilst Faluröd (Falun Red) and Herrgårdsgul (Manor House Yellow) are usual colours in much of the country. The last few years has seen an increase in the amount of black houses. We are used to seeing red, yellow, yellowy red and white colours. However, stronger blues and purples for example can often invoke strong reactions. As the ability to mix different colours has increased, the colour schemes of houses have been given a greater variation. Above all, details such as the front door can today be painted in bolder colours. Whatever your personal choice, you would be wise to take into account the surroundings, the house’s character and the era in which it was built. Often your colour choice will be a compromise of these three.
 
Choosing the surface and paint type.
Once you have decided what is to be painted and in which colour, it is time to choose the paint quality. Exterior colours are either opaque or transparent, e.g. stains. Different types of coatings give differing appearances and end results. Which looks best is up to you to decide. Paint or Stain? Consider the sort of surface finish and durability you want to achieve when choosing the type of paint. Paints such as Akrylatfarg are often very durable with excellent colour lasting qualities. Oil paints usually produce a shinier finish than acrylic paints. On average, today’s water based oil paints keep their colour better than the solvent-based paints previously used to. Stains produce a semi-transparent finish which allows the wood’s structure and veining to be seen through. In general, stains have a slightly shorter lifetime than paints. On the other hand, you rarely need to scrape or brush clean before painting, instead you can paint directly on top of the layer of old stain. A third type of paint is called an opaque stain. This can be described as something between a paint and a stain. An opaque stain produces a coating which allows the wood’s structure to be seen. An example is Perfekt Tacklasyr.
 
Different sheens
Paints can be found in different sheens. Total matt finishes are becoming ever more popular and today there exist many alternatives. However, consider that total matt surfaces attract more dirt than those with a glossier surface. 
 
What does it mean to paint with water based paint?
Today almost all paint is water based. Water based paints give the same result in terms of quality as solvent based paints. Plus the environmental advantages are considerable. Water based paints are kind to the environment and your health. Cleaning your tools is much simpler. Working with a paint that is almost odourless is also much more pleasant. Water based paint can, in most cases, be painted on a surface where there has previously been a solvent based product.
 
Time to paint!
Carefully carried out groundwork is the A to Z of a beautiful and long lasting end result. First of all, inspect the condition of the surface. If it is soft, it can be a sign of decay damage, which must be treated. If the surface you paint is clean, the lifespan of the finished painted surface is lengthened considerably and you can enjoy many years with your beautiful house.
Here is a step by step guide. Follow these three simple steps for a good looking and durable result.
  • 1) Before beginning to paint, be sure that the surface is clean, dry and firm. Wash the surface and remove dirt and possible mildew or mould. Scrape or brush off any old peeling paint.
  • 2) For the best end result, pre treat the wood with base oil and/or primer. Read the respective packaging for information on how to choose and instructions of use. Base oil prevents damp and stops blueing, rot and mould growth. Apply the base oil on the vulnerable places such as unpainted crosscut wood, joints, cracks etc on the facades, eaves and architraves. Primer allows the topcoat an optimal surface to adhere to. It acts as a filler and prevents the penetration of damp. Use a primer for new unpainted wood and scraped clean wood on facades, eaves and architraves.
  • 3) Finally it is time for the topcoats, usually two. Remember that the facade should be painted first, followed by architraves and windowsills. For best results, paint smaller sections from the top downwards. If you paint, for example, one floor at a time, you risk ultimately having a visible join between the lower and higher sections.

    There are no shortcuts to the perfect end result.  But with the right tools, the right paint,  the right weather and by following the instructions, the work will be simpler and you will achieve the best end result.

    Tips!

    Remember not to paint when it is cold and damp outside. It increases the risk of the facade cracking, becoming tarnished or struck by mould and mildew.

    Take care to finish painting at least three hours before evening dew comes.

    Also avoid painting on sun-heated surfaces, as there is a risk of blistering.

    Be sure to choose the right, good quality tools; they do influence the result.

    If you are painting with water based paint, use brushes intended for water based products.

     

     

     

    There are many ways of decorating and how you use colour is entirely down to personal preference and your desired feel for the room. There are no strict rules but here are some examples from Farrow & Ball of the most popular ways of decorating.

    COLOURED WALLS AND WHITE WOODWORK. The most traditional style is to use a colour on the walls and white gloss on woodwork, often the same white as that on the ceiling. This is a very clean, but sometimes hard look. To soften the contrast, select a white which is more sympathetic to the colour on the walls; this will make the contrast more gradual and you become less aware of where things stop and start, so the confines of the room disappear and it will feel bigger. Suggested complementary neutrals for each of our colours appear online next to your chosen paint colour

    LIGHTER WALLS AND DARKER WOODWORK. A good way to create light and space is to use the lightest colour on the largest surface area, such as the walls and the darker tone on woodwork. This works particularly well if you are using a neutral scheme and gives a more ‘decorated’ feel. The use of a dark colour on skirting boards not only makes the walls appear lighter in contrast, it also creates a strong contemporary look making everything above it feel lighter in contrast, and therefore the overall feel of the room is lighter too.

    ONE COLOUR USED ON WALLS AND WOODWORK. Using one colour on both the walls and woodwork is very popular in contemporary settings as it creates a very strong, clean look. Yet this look can also feel extremely calm and make a room feel much bigger, as there are no contrasts to draw the eye.

    CEILINGS. Ceilings don’t have to be white! The height of a ceiling is determined – not just by the colour – but by the contrast between the wall colour and the ceiling colour. Therefore, if you have a coloured wall and you paint the ceiling a bright white, your eye will be drawn to the strong contrast between the two colours. You become very aware of where the walls end and the ceiling begins, thus the perceived ceiling height drops. If however you use a white which is sympathetic to your wall colour, the change from wall to ceiling will seem more organic and you will be less aware of where the wall ends – and then the ceiling feels higher.

    To heighten low ceilings choose a light cool white like Farrow & Ball James White No.2010 or Farrow & Ball All White No.2005 and to make a high ceiling appear lower choose deeper and warmer off-whites like Farrow & Ball String No.8. 

    Colours with a grey, green or blue base try Farrow & Ball Slipper Satin No.2004 on the ceiling. For those with a more yellow base Farrow & Ball New White No.59 works well and for browns and for reds, try Farrow & Ball Dimity No.2008.

    To View all the Farrow & Ball Colours Click Here

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